Bu Jin FAQs

Choose from of the following FAQs:

• Gear Bag FAQ
• Shinai FAQ

What is the difference between Cordura® and Ballistics?

This is perhaps our most frequently asked bag question! The biggest difference (and it's not very big) between these two great fabrics is in the feel or the "hand" of the fabric. The 11 oz. Cordura® has the look and feel of canvas and is a bit scratchy to the touch. If it were paint, it would be considered to have a "flat" finish. The 12 oz. Ballistics has slightly larger and smoother filaments, feels a little smoother to the touch, and would have a "low sheen" finish, if it were paint. Cordura® is commonly used in high-end backpacks, and Ballistics is most frequently seen in soft-side luggage. Cordura® is available in a wide range of colors, while Ballistics is limited to only a few.

Both of these 100% nylon fabrics are equally durable: abrasion-, puncture- and water-resistant, colorfast, quick drying, and rot and mildew resistant.

My Bu Jin gear bag is as old as dirt, but it's still structurally sound. How can I clean it up?

This is a pretty common question, too. If your faithful companion of a bag looks like it needs a bath, we recommend that you spot-clean it using a soft brush and eco-friendly soap and water. Dirt doesn't easily adhere to these fabrics, and what does usually comes off pretty easily. If your bag is way beyond spot-cleaning, then just put it in the washer with mild detergent and warm water on the gentle or synthetic setting. When it's done, shake it off and hang it out to drip-dry. You'll almost certainly see noticeable improvement. Be aware, however, that due to the agitation of the washer some of the original water-resistant coating may have washed out.

Why should I get a Bu Jin Dogi Pack?

Well, you could get just any old bag to schlep to the dojo. But at Bu Jin Design, we, who go to the dojo nightly, have created a bag with a rectangular shape that (surprise!) exactly matches the shape of a folded dogi and hakama. Not only that, but the bags have two separate compartments, so you can separate your dripping dogi from your only slightly dripping hakama and other dry items. An exterior zipper pocket safely stores a notebook and other personal effects. Locking YKK zippers on the main compartments accommodate a travel lock. The bags come in two sizes, small and medium. The small size comfortably fits one dogi set, hakama, and even a towel with space left over. A medium sized Dogi Pack fits two dogi, hakama, towel, and then some. One might use the small size for the daily trips to the dojo, while the medium size is good for weekend seminars and such. Both sizes can be carried by a grip on the top of the bag, or worn as a shoulder bag, or as a backpack. The adjustable, padded backpack straps zip away into a special compartment when not in use. While ideal for trips to the dojo, these packs are also great for school (think big, rectangular books), work, or sports. With two choices of first quality fabric, a wide range of colors, reinforced stitching and bound inner seams, and a reasonable price, it's a pretty good deal. And an even better deal for this month only.

Shinai FAQ

What if my training partner doesn't have a shinai?

When training with fukurojinai, you should be careful to use shinai against other shinai, as striking a blade or bokken against a shinai could lead to the shinai being damaged. A shinai may also be damaged if you or your training partner fail to use proper technique. If either swings his or her shinai in large, arcing blows, in a manner reminiscent of a Viking's two-handed sword, the receiving shinai might very well suffer a fracture or could even break. Whether training with a shinai or a bokken, one should stay true to the spirit of wielding a true Japanese katana.

How do I know where the blade is on a shinai?

With a katana, or sword, the cutting edge is obvious. With a shinai, of course there is no cutting edge, but for proper training, an imaginary one must be designated. In the Yagyu Shinkage Ryu, the stitching that runs the entire length of the shinai conveniently serves as the cutting edge. Bu Jin Design shinai feature similar stitching, and it is advisable to personally designate a cutting edge, whether it be the stitching itself or the side opposite the stitching, and then to consistently use the given designation.

How should I go about varnishing my shinai, if I decide I want to?

With prolonged and heavy use, the leather on the fukurojinai may become abraded and wear down in places. To prevent this, you can apply a wood varnish, shellac, or polyurethane to the leather to protect it. This will, in turn, provide protection to the bamboo within the casing as well. Be aware that this process will significantly harden and darken the leather. The hardened leather will be less forgiving to a training partner than uncoated suede, so please train accordingly.

Simply brush a coat of the finishing agent onto the cylindrical leather casing, taking care not to coat the leather thong that wraps the hilt. If you prefer to coat the hilt wrapping, you must unwrap it, coat it, and then re-wrap it after it has dried. (The wrapping needs to remain supple in the event that the bamboo needs replacing.) Let the first coat dry completely, then use fine grit sandpaper to lightly scuff up the surface, so the next coat will adhere. With two or three repetitions of these steps, the fukurojinai will become very durable. It should be noted that this process is entirely optional.

Is there a "Shinai User Manual"?

Not exactly, since qualified instructors are your best source of help, but here is some useful information. The diameter of the bamboo determines the size of the hilt or grip area, and in general, there are two sizes, medium and large. A shinai is of approximate sword length, but each shinai varies somewhat, due to the locations of the joints in the bamboo. The proportions of a shinai are slightly different from the proportions of a katana, with the shinai's "blade" area being a little longer and the hilt a bit shorter than that of a sword. Therefore, when you grip a fukurojinai, you should grip the very end of the hilt with your left hand and place your right hand above it, leaving about a fist's distance between your hands. Your right hand will then most likely be gripping the lower part of the leather case itself.

There is no difference between the basic use of the shinai and that of a live blade or a bokken. Even a real sword or bokken may break or become bent if used with improper technique, so you should give the same attention to technique when training with a shinai.

One of the best ways to improve your irimi and tenkan moves is to empty-handedly face a shinai attack. You can experiment with moving in a closely as possible, leaving the minimal space between your body and the shinai - a paper-thin space - without fear of serious injury.

Of course, fukurojinai are substituted for bokken in various training applications, including kumitachi and tachi dori practices. As with bokken, the use of shinai results in heightened awareness of the moment at hand and provides new opportunities to study distance and timing.